Sewing darts into garments is an essential technique to shape fabric so that clothes fit the body perfectly. Darts help contour a flat piece of fabric to match the curves of the wearer, giving a polished and professional look to the finished garment. Whether you are sewing a blouse, dress, or jacket, learning how to sew darts properly is a fundamental skill for any dressmaker or sewing enthusiast.
Step 1: Understanding the Purpose of Darts
Darts are triangular folds sewn into fabric to add shape, usually at the bust, waist, or hips. They take in excess fabric to create a more fitted silhouette. Before sewing, it’s important to identify where darts are needed on your pattern or fabric based on the body measurements.
Step 2: Marking the Dart on Fabric
Using tailor’s chalk, fabric pen, or small pins, transfer the dart markings from the sewing pattern onto your fabric. The markings typically include the dart point (the tip of the triangle) and the dart legs (the two sides that will be sewn together). Accurate marking ensures that the dart is sewn in the correct place and with the right size.
Step 3: Folding the Dart
Fold the fabric right sides together so that the two dart legs line up exactly. The dart point should form a sharp tip. Pin the dart legs together, starting from the wide edge (usually the fabric’s edge) and ending at the dart point. This folding shapes the fabric to curve over the body’s contours.
Step 4: Sewing the Dart
Using a sewing machine or hand sewing, stitch from the wide edge of the dart toward the point. It’s important to sew slowly and carefully near the dart tip to avoid puckering. Do not backstitch at the dart point; instead, tie off the thread securely to keep the tip smooth and flat.
Step 5: Pressing the Dart
Pressing is key to a neat finish. Press the dart toward the center or side seam depending on the pattern instructions. Use a tailor’s ham (a pressing cushion) to help shape the dart without flattening the curve. Proper pressing sets the dart shape and prepares the garment for assembly.
Step 6: Checking the Fit
Once the darts are sewn and pressed, check the garment fit by trying it on or using a dress form. Adjust the dart if necessary by resewing to better contour the body shape.
